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atc
Today, I was made of win, awesome, and consequences. I think I leveled up in climbing.

Only four walls today, but considering that I was feeling tired and sore and staying off the overhangs, and the walls were an 5.9- (which I have done before), a 5.9+ (which I did some time ago but could not duplicate today--it's the one with the swingy barn door of an arete), a new 5.9, and a 5.8, I feel pretty good about myself. Please note, I didn't manage any of those without falls (though I came close on the 5.9-, though when I did fall I fell against the rope and gave myself a really nice forearm bruise), but on all of them except the 5.9+, I felt like I knew how to do all the moves: it was just a matter of strength.

I was particularly pleased with myself for figuring out one move on the 5.9, which involved standing up, going big, and letting myself fall sideways onto a side-pull to get opposition on the arete. And I logiced it out instead of thrashing, which felt awfully good.

I also had a small epiphany, which is that one reason the handholds suck so much on harder routes is because you're supposed to be able to do more with your feet.

Since I've been practicing footwork pretty hard, this pleases me.

...and then when I got home, I hurt my gitchy ankle getting off a chair. *sigh*

In other news, because of a frost warning, my garden is all tucked in under blankets tonight. I crack me up.

Comments

( 13 comments — Leave a comment )
[info]anachred wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 02:44 am (UTC)
Sometimes the injuries definitely wait until you're not watching...

The time I really sprained my ankle (needed crutches for a few days kind of sprain) I had been running around the woods in Groton MA for hours without a scratch. I stepped down toward the beach after the game was over and...

curl up in pain. Of course, being tired had something to do with it, but I felt supremely dumb.
[info]blackcoat wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 03:46 am (UTC)
How's the hundred pushups going? A friend of mine started that a month ago, and he's up to the mid 40s...
[info]matociquala wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 03:51 am (UTC)
I just did the test last week.
[info]alankria wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 07:23 am (UTC)
My parents wrapped a... thing... oleander?... in bubble-wrap last weekend. It was quite amusing. And then we got no frost after all.
[info]matociquala wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 11:25 am (UTC)
Hee. We also appear to have gotten no frost. but I had the fun of tucking in my strawberries.
[info]alankria wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 12:09 pm (UTC)
I hope you read/told them a story.
[info]fidelioscabinet wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 01:34 pm (UTC)
Save teh strawberries!

It's Strawberry Festival season in Portland, and we have trucks on teh side of the road down here in Nashville, loaded up with little green cardboard boxes of berries. They're mostly the small kind*, and hover right on the line between tart and sweet.

*You know, the kind that look like actual strawberries, and not the weird misshapen thngs the size of a baby's fist, or the GRD's padde paw.
[info]matociquala wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 11:15 pm (UTC)
Mmm. Real strawberries.

Want.
[info]retch wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 10:29 pm (UTC)
I love climbs with aretes, there is a 5.10a at my gym currently that is on a flake, with basically 3/4 of the way up the only effective handhold is working the arrete, with lots of just bracing on the wall with your feet (at least for me, the holds seem spaced out enough that it is necessary). And yay for figuring out the move you needed, that's part of what I love about climbing, the blend of monkey intuition with realtime physics modeling. In your head!

Yup, crappy handholds and more footwork is definitely the case as the numbers go up. I'm struggling really hard with just getting onto the wall on a 5.10b that they put up recently, I cannot manage it for the life of me, even with understanding all the bits (foot over there, hands way over here, hurl myself sideways and try to get my hips over the foot on the toehold and then somehow stand up without falling off the wall!! GAH!!)
[info]matociquala wrote:
May. 19th, 2009 11:15 pm (UTC)
Hee. Well, you're way out of my price range. I've found maybe one 5.10 I can even stand up on.

go you!
[info]retch wrote:
May. 20th, 2009 06:55 pm (UTC)
Well, I'm not doing them cleanly yet!! And I was surprised when I moved from 5.9 to some of the 5.10a climbs that it wasn't a harder jump. I think the extra characters make it more intimidating... :)
( 13 comments — Leave a comment )

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