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bear by san

March 2017



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ace the wonder dog

and if you're offering me diamonds and rust, i've already paid

Last night, I did one perfect pullup. And a half of a second one. (Saturday, as I mentioned on twitter, I did three sets of one pullup apiece, and a fourth one assisted by scott_lynch) But the really exciting thing was the climbing, as I (thrashing, kicking, strugglng) made it up one route that's not rated yet, but was right at the limit of my ability. I also managed a 5.9 I had previously failed on, and a tricky balancy overhung 5.8--plus an unrated route that was somewhere in difficulty between the two, and a couple of easy warmups.

But why I say I leveled up is because I noticed, on that 5.8, how EASY many things were. Stuff I might have been able to do previously, but would have struggled with. Stuff that I just wouldn't have been able to do at all.

I'm discovering something cool, which is that in all that climbing at ridiculously low strength to weight ratios (for a climber) I have developed a great deal of strength and skill. And now that my strength to weight ratio is much higher... I'm actually pretty good at this!

Something to be said for climbing in the equivalent of a weight vest since 2007...

In other news, I'm 150 pages into Steles of the Sky, and I'm rediscovering that writing a novel after working on short stories for a few months is a weird transition. Especially since I had to relearn how to write the damned shorts, because I kept trying to write them in novel voice.

Novels have so much room! Everything does not have to be planed down to the bone, every single word bent in service to theme, every bit of excess flesh pared away.


Congratulations! Lots of kick-buttness in this post.

I love pull-ups! CrossFit teaches a pull-up trick to really strengthen that set of muscles: "pull-downs" - with help or by jumping, get into top position and s l o w l y lower one's self down using good form. My physical therapist had me using those big rubber bands at first, and some folks prefer those. I've shown a bunch of friends who otherwise assumed they couldn't do pull-ups at all, and now they can.

I got started focusing on pull-ups after my accident, because I had to or I'd lose full use of my left arm and suffer neck and back pain forever. Well, now I'm stronger than I've ever been. Hooray for getting stronger while getting, ahem, more experienced.

Yeah, stories vs. novels - they really are different animals, and not just in length. When a novelist gives that level of attention to the prose in such a long work, I really appreciate it. On the other hand, we don't see many of those books, because they take FOREVER to complete, and most people don't even notice the attention, anyway....
Yeah, negative reps or an assisted machine are great ways to train. *g*