Log in

bear by san

February 2017



Powered by LiveJournal.com
ace the wonder dog

and if you're offering me diamonds and rust, i've already paid

Last night, I did one perfect pullup. And a half of a second one. (Saturday, as I mentioned on twitter, I did three sets of one pullup apiece, and a fourth one assisted by scott_lynch) But the really exciting thing was the climbing, as I (thrashing, kicking, strugglng) made it up one route that's not rated yet, but was right at the limit of my ability. I also managed a 5.9 I had previously failed on, and a tricky balancy overhung 5.8--plus an unrated route that was somewhere in difficulty between the two, and a couple of easy warmups.

But why I say I leveled up is because I noticed, on that 5.8, how EASY many things were. Stuff I might have been able to do previously, but would have struggled with. Stuff that I just wouldn't have been able to do at all.

I'm discovering something cool, which is that in all that climbing at ridiculously low strength to weight ratios (for a climber) I have developed a great deal of strength and skill. And now that my strength to weight ratio is much higher... I'm actually pretty good at this!

Something to be said for climbing in the equivalent of a weight vest since 2007...

In other news, I'm 150 pages into Steles of the Sky, and I'm rediscovering that writing a novel after working on short stories for a few months is a weird transition. Especially since I had to relearn how to write the damned shorts, because I kept trying to write them in novel voice.

Novels have so much room! Everything does not have to be planed down to the bone, every single word bent in service to theme, every bit of excess flesh pared away.


The story vs. novel thing is part of why I was so freaking determined to finish a short story even if it took me three or four months (When I can get a higher word count than that in a novel in the same length of time. Because I kind of haven't stretched those muscles in a while.

I still wrote long, i feel, but then, I always do. My edits invariably include paring down. And sometimes include it again, after I thought I had stripped all that could be.

I need to think more about the exercise; I'm doing gym stuff with my mom, but it feels more like maintenance level than improvement level. Although I have noticed, whenever I pick up the cats, that they're so LIGHT ... because at least I do have to keep lifting a baby.
Good for you!

Yeah, stories and novels use totally different sets of muscles. You can't train for one with the other, any more than... I dunno, you train for sprints by running marathons. I mean, yeah, the general fitness (skill level) helps, but in the end you still need to do what it is you plan on doing...

And in this extremely pained metaphor, by "you" I mean "me."

Also, babies are heavy.
The divide for me seems to be whether I can keep the whole thing in my head at once or not.

I think I would find novels easier if my head would just hold more. *looks for the shoe stretcher*
I'm pretty sure one of the definitions of a novel is "a story too ig to hold in your head all at once"