sleepyUnfortunately, the rest of the wall is an overhang, and I don't yet have the strength or technique to hold myself on it. So I've got the first fifteen feet or so, and I'm just gonna have to keep pushing to get the rest. Ah well. If it were easy, it wouldn't be fun.
My smearing is getting a lot better, though. I have nice fat fleshy high-volume feet that make my life easy on the slab wall. I somehow suspect my first 5.7 will be one of the ones on the slab. There's actually at least one route on that wall that I can do in a thoughtful and organized fashion at this point, and feel very secure on the wall. Feeling secure on the wall is very awesome.
They took down all my 5.6s! All of them! Except the one that everybody in the gym including the staff agrees is really a 5.7+ or a 5.8, but they haven't relabeled it. (Actually, it might be a 5.6 if you have a lot of brute force to throw at it. But maybe not so much on technique. There is an awful lot of hauling yourself up by your hands with no footholds, however.)
Oddly enough, as if it were exercise, climbing makes you hungry.
1023 more words on the WTF story I need to write... next January. Thank you, brain. No, I'm not complaining.
But maybe consider thinking about the novel now?
