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bear by san

March 2017

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shotgun spies mfu illya

I sent my first 5.7 tonight. Although there were two instances of dogging on the rope and shaking my arms, trying to restore feeling to my fingers, and my right elbow is still having words with me about it, each time the problem was never actually not knowing what to do next: it was, each time, not being strong enough to do it.

This may not sound like a major advance, but trust me, it is.

And we will just pretend that all the whimpering and crying were on purpose.

And I came home to a preliminary sketch for the All the Windwracked Stars cover art. It's gorgeous..I can't wait until I can show you a final version.

Comments

Yay 5.7! Brava.

(What's dogging on the rope?)
Letting your belayer carry your weight while you rest. *g*

It's cheating.
Excellent!!!!
*makes a muscle*
Eeeeee! Send me the prelim sketch if you can, please. I'd love to see it.
oooo, I suspect my editor will prolly let me get away with that. ;-)
Alas. I wish. *g*

You have to work on stuff you can *do* to build technique and strength. *g* Working at the edge of your ability sometimes is good, but constant failing is not helpful.

*fails a little more*
Excellent! Congratuations!

I can barely handle the 5.2s in the bouldering room at Granite Arch (our local climbing place).

My mountain goat of a 7-year-old daughter, however, she's another story. Her strength-vs-mass ratio is way better than mine...

- yeff
Bouldering problems are harder. And require a lot more power.

*g* I can't do any of those.
We went to Joshua Tree (if we don't make it any other weekend, MLK is a tradition; though one of our first dates was a bitterly cold November weekend).

No small part of the fun is clambering the boulders.

I didn't have good shoes on Saturday, so I took a small fall, slipping about four feet when my wedging failed. Scraped elbow and bruised small of back. If I'd not had a camera bag, I'd have been more secure, but if I'd failed, well it would have been bloody.

Monday, with better shoes, I made a much harder climb, more wedging, and a lot further to fall if I failed, once I got to where it was all knees and fingers.

You really should come visit. We'll go look at flowers and pictures, and then retire to the jumbled rocks and show you what it's like in the great outdoors of the high desert, where there are no ropes.

TK
I keep telling the people who want to take me caving that way to convince me is not showing me their bruises and scars. *g* I am old now, and have done my share of hurting myself seriously in ways that will never quite heal.

(And hey! I used to live forty minutes from the Valley of Fire and twenty minutes from Red Rock! I've done some desert bouldering.)

None of which, of course, doesn't mean I shouldn't come visit, and bring my climbing shoes.
*** APPLAUSE ***

OK, gang, everybody together for a chorus of "The Bear Went Over the Mountain"!
Thank you!

I don't know the name of the cover artist yet, actually.
On a completely unrelated note, I just lost my slushpile-reading job (the agency closed).

Know anyone who needs an honest, thick-skinned slush-pile reader?
...I had no idea there were people who got paid to read slush.

I mean, I knew there were paid people who read slush as part of their other duties. But I didn't realize that slush reader was a job description.
Dude! If you haven't seen already, you've been io9ed.
Thanks.

Congratulations. It's great that you always knew what to do. Mentally, anyway, you're undoubtedly ready for more highly rated climbs. I'm sure the physical will come in time.

As a climbing guide told me once, those who pick up where they left off after a fall improve more quickly than those who start over from the bottom after each fall. So, it sounds like you're doing the right things.
Sounds like you had a pretty good day.
Yeah. You know? I did.