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bear by san

December 2021



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writing matthew

Noticeable progress!

Well, after losing Wednesday and Monday's climbing, more or less, to menstrual incompetence (I don't get cranky and I don't get bad cramps, but I do lose 50% of my pain tolerance and upper body strength, and forget stamina, courage, and coordination. /TMI), I kind of kicked ass tonight. Only four walls, but I sailed up a long 5.6 which I've always had to pause on before, and kind of kicked ass on two 5.7s which I have in tha past struggled with. The other was a 5.5 which has a tricky bit I will someday get past without wiping out on. I like that climb; it's a 5.5, but it's a fun 5.5, not a boring straightaway.

In short, I did better on everything than I have before, and also, really good endorphins.

This improves the fact that I apparently have inflamed tendons in my left arm, and am on NSAIDs and icepacks until further notice.

Yay, icepacks.


I find the occasional break from a given physical exercise improves performance when you go back to it. I'm not sure if it's because the muscles have time to rest or because the brain and muscles get more in sync, but it does lead to nice breakthroughs.

menstrual incompetence

What a great term! I have to cancel training on day one, as I get clumsy, and this is not a good thing with 10kg in each hand.

Re: menstrual incompetence

The worst of it is actually the premenstrual incompetence. But yeah, it really just blows. Do not want.

> lose 50% of my pain tolerance and upper body strength

relieved to hear someone else say this. I've mentioned this happening to me to a few women and have got back blank looks.
I wish to mention that you (among other climbing people on my friendslist) are to blame for the fact that I have taken up bouldering.

Thank you.

Also, that's an awesome icon.
Also, that's an awesome icon.

You may already know this, but it's Tilda Swinton being part of Cornelia Parker's marvellous installation The Maybe at the Serpentine Gallery.
I did not know it, but Tilda = win.