So we went to the more-bouldery gym today because our regular gym is closed for renovation.
Gah. I will never complain about the upper body work at Prime Climb again. :-P I'm sorry, but one should not have to smear three feet from foothold to foothold up an alleged 5.4 on vertical from one good handhold.
I finished a 5.6 (which was a really fun/tricky climb requiring a heck of a lot of pauses to rest, because of above-mentioned need for brute force) and tried another 5.6, which I finally gave up and cheated on because I wanted the exercise of topping out. I also di a 5.4 and found I had to cheat to finish another one, because I'm sorry. If it's got four-foot gaps between the holds, I don't care how good the holds are. It's not really a 5.4.
There was an extremely cute and very helpful shirtless bouldering boy with bleached and punked out hair and 1.7% body fat, though, which makes up for a lot.
I think I'll drink a lot of tea now.