it's a great life, if you don't weaken (matociquala) wrote,
it's a great life, if you don't weaken
matociquala

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well i saw him standing there by the record machine

I rock. That is all.

Okay, not quite all. But not only did I finish a draft today, but I sent a route I have been working on for !five weeks! Which is still unrated, but consensus around the gym is that it's harder than a 5.7. So if it's a 5.7+, that would make it my second one. And if it's a 5.8, which is what I suspect, then it's my first 5.8.

Basically, it turns out that the foothold I was thrashing at is a total freaking misdirect--at least for me--and what I needed to do was lie back on a fairly crappy handhold and stand up on a totally different foothold.

And! I remembered how to do the 5.7 I finally figured out how to do elegantly on Monday, sent it all with no dogging on the rope and no thrashing. I actually felt like I knew what I was doing.

Spent some time talking with some other climbers while we were there, and one of them, who is also the Climbing Shoe Guy at my local Eastern Mountain Sports, assured me that yes, the Evolvs really do suck. So I think I will be retiring them, because I tried the same route both with those and with my old Sportivas, and footholds I just could not stick in the Evolvs were a cinch in the Sportivas.

Alas, the Sportivas are shot--they're a year old--so Tuesday I need to go buy another pair of new shoes. Tuesday, because Climbing Shoe Guy will be at work, and he can help me buy a pair of shoes that do not suck.

WIN.
Tags: falling off perfectly good rocks
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