it's a great life, if you don't weaken (matociquala) wrote,
it's a great life, if you don't weaken
matociquala

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In which there is a great deal of boring nattering about climbing shoes.

Yeah, not my greatest climbing day ever. I got there early, because I had to drop the Moby Smurfberry off for some rater overdue servicing, and did a little playing around in the bouldering cave, which is currently Under Revision. Found a route I could actually send, which makes me happy. Absolutely no idea what the rating is, other than "plumb easy." Also tried a couple of others, but couldn't even stand up on one and while I sould stand up on the secon, I couldn't make the next move. Time to go back and take another crack at that black V0 on the big bouldering wall, I guess.

Other than that, I did the one I finally cracked on Monday again--not smoothly; there was an awful lot of thrashing to get past the crux, but eventually I did, and I am going to keep throwing myself at it until I make it smoothly. Also, I made three attempts on a kind of wonky, mostly-overhung 5.7+ that I get all freaked out by the traverse on. Going to come back and try that one on Wednesday, especially since I talked Mark into putting a quick-release on it to hold the damned rope to the wall, so when you come off it, you can get back on. It's hard to thrash on a move sufficiently to get past it when every time you come off, you have to go back down to the ground and start over because you can't get back on the wall.

And that was pretty much it. My climbing buddy and I were both pretty tired out from yesterday's hike, I think.

The new shoes--I wound up with a pair of La Sportiva Katanas--hurt like hell, but I can climb in them, and they'll break in eventually. Hopefully these will work out better than the Evolvs. (Anybody want to buy a pair of Evolvs?) Also, I talked to a different guy today, and he thinks my old La Sportiva Mythoses are resolable after all, so they go off in the mail tomorrow. Which is the only reason I didn't buy a new pair of Mythoses. I really like those shoes.

So if the resoling takes, I'll have 'em back. And if not, I'll wear the Katanas for a while and see if they work out, and then I can decide the next time I need to buy shoes if I'm getting another pair of those, or sticking to the Mythoses.

I really, really like the La Sportivas, though. I think I'm going to stick to those for the foreseeable future, unless I break down and try a pair of the Five Ten Moccasyms, which I keep thinking fit really well in the store. But the shoe guys are doubtful. They have a particular expression of doubtfullness they use that's quite unmistakable.
Tags: falling off perfectly good rocks
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