I has improved.
I went over to the gym early today and spent about 45 minutes bouldering and traversing and doing foot-precision exercises, at which I (hello) suck. And then the Jeff and Alisa showed up, and we climbed some, like you do.
I got two moves higher on the black overhung 5.7+ that is my current project wall. I think I could have finished it if I has latched onto the big orange hold, but instead I just slapped it, and then my forearms were shot. Overhangs fucking kill me. The trick, for future reference, is to ignore the big blue sidepull and the lowest foot on the right side of the traverse, and just go up the damned wall and match hands on the ear up there.
If I can get past that bit on Wednesday, I will be high enough up the route that I will be able to get back on it without killing myself, And then I might be able to send the bastard. I'm getting awfully good at the bottom third, anyway.
Then after a rest I sent two brand new routes (so far unrated), one on the slab wall and one on the damned slick wall you can't smear on at all. I'm going to guess they're both 5.7s. The one on the slab is insanely reachy, and involves a hand-foot match with no other holds in sight--you just have to smear up to it and then do it. I was pretty pleased that I got past that. The one on the slick vertical is all slopers and really sketchy feet, and I need to work at using my feet more to keep my center in to the wall. But I still did it, falls and dogging aside.
Then I went back to retry a tough white 5.7 in a dihedral with a little roof, and I blew it at the crux four times. I've done that one before, but it's a strengthy pushy move to get around the edge of the roof, and I just didn't have enough left.
Also, cute climber boys dug my new ink, which was at the totally peely and gross stage. Climber boys love ink. *g*
All in all, a pretty good night, even if I didn't climb as hard as I wanted to.
And now, steamed dumplings and a glass of wine.
ETA: Oh, that yellow wall I finally beat last Wendesday? they rated it a 5.7. Boo. *g*