oh, i'd like a cup of black coffee and a piece of sweet cake
Girl vs. Wall: qualified success. I got two moves higher on my project wall, a 5.7+, and if I can make it one more move, I will send it. I lost my feet and burned out my forearms getting them back, and then my hands were sweaty on a really slick knobby side pull and it was all over. I tried another 5.7+ but couldn't get on it, and then I worked on the last unsent 5.7 around, and I think I have the physical capability to send it, but the psychology is eluding me. It's on a crack, which is unfamiliar, and there us a lot of backstepping and laybacks and trusting your feet on opposition. And basically I just couldn't make myself step off the footholds onto the layback and do it.
After that, I went and did a 5.6 I've done before (Let's be honest, it's a 5.7 rated down: anything with four bitchy slopers in a row is not a 5.6) and a 5.5 that's strengthy but not difficult.
And I felt good afterwards, not wiped out. I got pumped on the first and third walls, but recovered fast and had enough bottom left to have done acouple more.
We have established categories of challenge. "Hard," "Difficult," and "Complicated."
Hard means physically hard, difficult means technical, and complicated means thinky.