Today, I did a 5.7 I've done befor,e but today I did it elegantly, which made me very happy. Apparently, I've learned how to backstep. I also did a new 5.8, a balancy one with a roof, and although I had to dog on the rope to rest I had repeated feelings of being in control of the climb. This is a new sensation and I like it. Alas, it did not last, because next I tried an alleged 5.9-, and I had to bail on that one on the ten tries rule, because I was not making ten feet. (Our rule is: ten feet, or ten tries before you can declare a climb too hard.) So I went back and did a little 5.6 or so on the slab. Whee!
My gym's ratings are on CRACK. That is all.