I'm back to working 5.10s, which makes me feel like a real grownup climber, and if I can continue without re-straining my shoulder or fucking up a pulley tendon, I may persist in being a real grownup climber. I never really expect to get much beyond 5.10s -- I started too late in life, and I only climb two or three days a week -- but I feel more secure on the wall than I ever have, and I'm even eyeing a 5.8 on the huge, terrifying, massively overhung wall on the back of the gym. I got up one thing on it a couple of years ago, but that was before they re-engineered it to take out the rest point in the middle. Maybe in another ten, twenty pounds or so.
I did get two holds higher on the 5.10a that I have declared my current project (there's another one I tried yesterday and will come back to, but it's very overhung) and I got up all but the last ten feet of a brutal 5.9 that would be a ten anywhere else on the planet except at the madly underating gym where I do most of my climbing. A combination of two slopers and a long reach to the third hold, with largely absent feet, defeated me. But I fought it until my hands quit. Which is something.
I am learning about slopers. What I have learned is that slopers suck.
This means I'm back to climbing as well as I was last August, although I think I'm not yet quite as strong. The stamina is good, though--running helps, it turns out.
And now back to trying to write the last damned scene of this story.